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The Firefly Rattery
About us
Here is my website http://the-firefly-rattery.webs.com/index.html
My name is Anya. I am a veterinary technician. I have owned rats for over 20 years and I have been breeding rats for over twelve years and counting. I am very open and willing to answer anything you may want to know.
My policy is, my rats are my pets first. This means, I will never put them in danger or use them just to make money. I breed rats to give people the option of healthy rats who are well socialized and will make excellent pets. I will be choosy about the people I adopt to. If I do not feel you are ready or can take care of them properly then I will not adopt to you.
In all reality I do not make any money on the rats. The adoption fee pays for the supplies my rats and their litters need. Any left over goes into a separate bank account and is saved for the rats. I use this money for their supplies during the months I do not have litters and for medical bills. (When breeding you must be prepared to take a pregnant female to the ER for a C-section if something is going wrong. That can be around $500 to $2500 depending on what they have to do.)
I require a deposit to hold rats. If you do not want to send in a deposit I can not guarantee there will be babies left. I hunt down homes until every pair has a deposit on them. The deposit is a little more than half of the adoption fee. The other part of the adoption fee is due at the time of pickup. People pick babies based on the order that they sent their deposit in. Babies are picked from photos. I take photos around 2 weeks and 4 weeks old. If you do not like any of the available babies then your deposit can be transferred to the next set of litters. Deposits are nonrefundable in most cases. There are few exceptions where they are refundable; it is at a case by case basis and completely at my discretion. Your deposit lets me know you are serious about adopting rats and are fully committed to these little living beings.
Due to a baby rat being stolen... show more from me, effective immediately, July 2013, no one will be allowed into my rattery without first placing a deposit on rats. This may be negotiated but you will have to provide me with your current driver license to copy the information. I am sorry, but after a baby, who as not ready to leave their mom and most likely died due to this, was stolen, I can not take the risk.
My rats come from healthy backgrounds. Their parents and grandparents are healthy as well. (Of course tumors do arise and I adjust accordingly.) I have traveled several hours to some good, reliable breeders in other states. If my rat develops a health problems I stop breeding them. If the health problem is genetic then I do not breed their offspring. My rats are fed rat food (Mazuri Brand as recommended by the veterinary hand book for exotics) and human food (cooked bones, steamed vegetables, cooked pasta (on occasion), fruits, etc.). So they are not lacking any type of vitamins or nutrients. Their cages are cleaned about every three days (Every Tuesday and Friday). Every day the levels are wiped down. The cages and toys are washed every Friday.
My rats are never bred more than three times in their entire life with the average being one to two times. They are given ample time in between litters to recover. If they have a complication with their birthing, nursing the litter, or raising the litter they are not bred again. I take the health and well being of my rats and their offspring very seriously.
Most pet stores get their rats from breeders who specialize in quantity, not quality. The rats are breed for snake food and because some are colored they are dibbed as fancy rats and sold as pets. These rats are not handled daily. They are left to sit in their cage until someone buys them. Most pet stores do not separate the sexes so the rats are free to breed. This means inbreeding and becoming pregnant at an age that can be devastating to the female rat. (As female rats should never be breed before 3 months of age (as recommended by rat resource) at the very earliest. And they should be of healthy size and weight.) So you are chancing getting a pregnant rat. Rats can reproduce as early as 5 weeks old. Again, most pet stores keep the rats in small cages that are not well ventilated and often over crowded. They also do not always keep the cages as clean as they should be. This can and will lead to respiratory problems and respiratory infections. The rat will require antibiotics or it will become more and more sick and eventually pass away.
I let you know as soon as the babies are born what weekend they will be ready. (If I am unsure I give you two weekends.) I ask that you pick them up on that weekend. If you can not then I ask that you pay a fee to cover the costs of their supplies and care. I only factor 5 weeks into their price (If I choose to keep them for 6 weeks I do not increase the adoption fee.). For the extra time I am keeping them I have to house them in a separate cage, pay for food and bedding, care for them, and I have to continue to socialize them every day. Of course if you have only just contacted me on the weekend they are ready and can not come that weekend I understand. But then you will need to come get them the next weekend. Otherwise I will have to charge a fee for every week they are with me there after. Thank you for understanding.
If you own rats I will ask that the day you are coming to the rattery that you wear clothes that your rats have not come in contact with and that you not hold your rats that day. I ask this of all clients who have rats. I also ask that you do not visit a pet store 72 hours prior to visiting my rattery. Pet store rats are often sick and you could easily carry something home on your clothing or in your nasal passage way (like mycoplasma). All of this may seem silly but it is to keep my rattery safe and allows me to continue to have an open (allowing people to come into my home) rattery. Thank you for understanding.
If you use Carefresh bedding, anything like it that uses recycled paper, cedar, or scented bedding then I can not adopt to you. My fact page explains why. (My fact page has a list of beddings that are not acceptable but the list is not all inclusive.)
If you will feed the rats a seed mix or a homemade mix as their main diet then I can not adopt to you. My fact page explains why.
If you have a cage that is too small, an aquarium, or a cage that has wire levels that are not covered then I can not adopt to you. My fact page explains why.
Sorry if this sounds harsh, but I love my rats and only want the best for their offspring. My fact page explains why I feel this way and explains the knowledge I have to back up my beliefs. Once you read it and know how harmful Carefresh (and other beddings like it), wire levels, and seed mix as a main diet can be to rats I am sure you will understand and agree.
I ALWAYS take back my rats. No judgement passed. If you can not keep the rats or you feel the rat has a social problem I will take them back. I only ask questions to better determine what I may need to do for the rats and to alert any potential new adopters about the rats' personalities.
In most cases I do require that they are returned with their cage. I do this because One: I do not have extra cages suitable for long term living for the rats to live in while they are being evaluated, quarantined, and then waiting to be adopted. Two: If you are getting rid of the rats, you do not need the cage. I have seen people return rats and then get another pet and use that cage. Which shows me they grew tired of the rats and I find it highly unfair to the animals. Three: Most times when I adopt out older rats who were returned, they are free with the purchase of the cage. (That money from the cage pays for the supplies and the time they spent back at my home.) Or if someone already has a cage I can sell the existing cage to pay for their care.
Depending on the situation a refund may be given. Refunds are given on a case by case basis and are only given at my discretion. If you just grow tired of the rats I will not give a refund, if you no longer have the time and/or money to care for the rat I will not give a refund, if it has been a few months and this is the first you have contacted me about an on going problem I will not give a refund, if you have not followed my advice then I will not give you a refund, ETC.
I will not adopt out rats of the opposite gender to the ones you already own. (If you have females, I will not adopt out males to you. If you have males, I will not adopt out females to you.) If those rats are spayed/neutered then I will. But I will need to see the vet bill/record as proof.
I do not support back yard breeding and the rats will come with a contract that states that you will not breed them. Breeding contracts can be given to people with proven experience in breeding rats. The contract will also state that if you can not keep the rat for any reason, you will return them to me (refunds are based on the individual situation). (I do not often sell to breeders. I would rather trade rats with them. Thus we would become breeding partners and help each other with our love of rats.)
If your rat develops any illness you will report it to me so I can make a note of it and adjust my breeding rats accordingly. I do not want to have any health problems in my lines and the only way to know is if my adopters keep in contact.
More about my policies - http://the-firefly-rattery.webs.com/Me.html show more
My name is Anya. I am a veterinary technician. I have owned rats for over 20 years and I have been breeding rats for over twelve years and counting. I am very open and willing to answer anything you may want to know.
My policy is, my rats are my pets first. This means, I will never put them in danger or use them just to make money. I breed rats to give people the option of healthy rats who are well socialized and will make excellent pets. I will be choosy about the people I adopt to. If I do not feel you are ready or can take care of them properly then I will not adopt to you.
In all reality I do not make any money on the rats. The adoption fee pays for the supplies my rats and their litters need. Any left over goes into a separate bank account and is saved for the rats. I use this money for their supplies during the months I do not have litters and for medical bills. (When breeding you must be prepared to take a pregnant female to the ER for a C-section if something is going wrong. That can be around $500 to $2500 depending on what they have to do.)
I require a deposit to hold rats. If you do not want to send in a deposit I can not guarantee there will be babies left. I hunt down homes until every pair has a deposit on them. The deposit is a little more than half of the adoption fee. The other part of the adoption fee is due at the time of pickup. People pick babies based on the order that they sent their deposit in. Babies are picked from photos. I take photos around 2 weeks and 4 weeks old. If you do not like any of the available babies then your deposit can be transferred to the next set of litters. Deposits are nonrefundable in most cases. There are few exceptions where they are refundable; it is at a case by case basis and completely at my discretion. Your deposit lets me know you are serious about adopting rats and are fully committed to these little living beings.
Due to a baby rat being stolen... show more from me, effective immediately, July 2013, no one will be allowed into my rattery without first placing a deposit on rats. This may be negotiated but you will have to provide me with your current driver license to copy the information. I am sorry, but after a baby, who as not ready to leave their mom and most likely died due to this, was stolen, I can not take the risk.
My rats come from healthy backgrounds. Their parents and grandparents are healthy as well. (Of course tumors do arise and I adjust accordingly.) I have traveled several hours to some good, reliable breeders in other states. If my rat develops a health problems I stop breeding them. If the health problem is genetic then I do not breed their offspring. My rats are fed rat food (Mazuri Brand as recommended by the veterinary hand book for exotics) and human food (cooked bones, steamed vegetables, cooked pasta (on occasion), fruits, etc.). So they are not lacking any type of vitamins or nutrients. Their cages are cleaned about every three days (Every Tuesday and Friday). Every day the levels are wiped down. The cages and toys are washed every Friday.
My rats are never bred more than three times in their entire life with the average being one to two times. They are given ample time in between litters to recover. If they have a complication with their birthing, nursing the litter, or raising the litter they are not bred again. I take the health and well being of my rats and their offspring very seriously.
Most pet stores get their rats from breeders who specialize in quantity, not quality. The rats are breed for snake food and because some are colored they are dibbed as fancy rats and sold as pets. These rats are not handled daily. They are left to sit in their cage until someone buys them. Most pet stores do not separate the sexes so the rats are free to breed. This means inbreeding and becoming pregnant at an age that can be devastating to the female rat. (As female rats should never be breed before 3 months of age (as recommended by rat resource) at the very earliest. And they should be of healthy size and weight.) So you are chancing getting a pregnant rat. Rats can reproduce as early as 5 weeks old. Again, most pet stores keep the rats in small cages that are not well ventilated and often over crowded. They also do not always keep the cages as clean as they should be. This can and will lead to respiratory problems and respiratory infections. The rat will require antibiotics or it will become more and more sick and eventually pass away.
I let you know as soon as the babies are born what weekend they will be ready. (If I am unsure I give you two weekends.) I ask that you pick them up on that weekend. If you can not then I ask that you pay a fee to cover the costs of their supplies and care. I only factor 5 weeks into their price (If I choose to keep them for 6 weeks I do not increase the adoption fee.). For the extra time I am keeping them I have to house them in a separate cage, pay for food and bedding, care for them, and I have to continue to socialize them every day. Of course if you have only just contacted me on the weekend they are ready and can not come that weekend I understand. But then you will need to come get them the next weekend. Otherwise I will have to charge a fee for every week they are with me there after. Thank you for understanding.
If you own rats I will ask that the day you are coming to the rattery that you wear clothes that your rats have not come in contact with and that you not hold your rats that day. I ask this of all clients who have rats. I also ask that you do not visit a pet store 72 hours prior to visiting my rattery. Pet store rats are often sick and you could easily carry something home on your clothing or in your nasal passage way (like mycoplasma). All of this may seem silly but it is to keep my rattery safe and allows me to continue to have an open (allowing people to come into my home) rattery. Thank you for understanding.
If you use Carefresh bedding, anything like it that uses recycled paper, cedar, or scented bedding then I can not adopt to you. My fact page explains why. (My fact page has a list of beddings that are not acceptable but the list is not all inclusive.)
If you will feed the rats a seed mix or a homemade mix as their main diet then I can not adopt to you. My fact page explains why.
If you have a cage that is too small, an aquarium, or a cage that has wire levels that are not covered then I can not adopt to you. My fact page explains why.
Sorry if this sounds harsh, but I love my rats and only want the best for their offspring. My fact page explains why I feel this way and explains the knowledge I have to back up my beliefs. Once you read it and know how harmful Carefresh (and other beddings like it), wire levels, and seed mix as a main diet can be to rats I am sure you will understand and agree.
I ALWAYS take back my rats. No judgement passed. If you can not keep the rats or you feel the rat has a social problem I will take them back. I only ask questions to better determine what I may need to do for the rats and to alert any potential new adopters about the rats' personalities.
In most cases I do require that they are returned with their cage. I do this because One: I do not have extra cages suitable for long term living for the rats to live in while they are being evaluated, quarantined, and then waiting to be adopted. Two: If you are getting rid of the rats, you do not need the cage. I have seen people return rats and then get another pet and use that cage. Which shows me they grew tired of the rats and I find it highly unfair to the animals. Three: Most times when I adopt out older rats who were returned, they are free with the purchase of the cage. (That money from the cage pays for the supplies and the time they spent back at my home.) Or if someone already has a cage I can sell the existing cage to pay for their care.
Depending on the situation a refund may be given. Refunds are given on a case by case basis and are only given at my discretion. If you just grow tired of the rats I will not give a refund, if you no longer have the time and/or money to care for the rat I will not give a refund, if it has been a few months and this is the first you have contacted me about an on going problem I will not give a refund, if you have not followed my advice then I will not give you a refund, ETC.
I will not adopt out rats of the opposite gender to the ones you already own. (If you have females, I will not adopt out males to you. If you have males, I will not adopt out females to you.) If those rats are spayed/neutered then I will. But I will need to see the vet bill/record as proof.
I do not support back yard breeding and the rats will come with a contract that states that you will not breed them. Breeding contracts can be given to people with proven experience in breeding rats. The contract will also state that if you can not keep the rat for any reason, you will return them to me (refunds are based on the individual situation). (I do not often sell to breeders. I would rather trade rats with them. Thus we would become breeding partners and help each other with our love of rats.)
If your rat develops any illness you will report it to me so I can make a note of it and adjust my breeding rats accordingly. I do not want to have any health problems in my lines and the only way to know is if my adopters keep in contact.
More about my policies - http://the-firefly-rattery.webs.com/Me.html show more
Recommendations and reviews from 1 person
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Referral from
October 17, 2017
Raffi S. asked:Hey guys, I'm looking to get three girls in MA. Does anyone know of someone needing to rehome or a reputable breeder? I already have done a Google search, just trying to find more options.Kayla F. replied:https://facebook.com/The.Firefly.Rattery/
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