Dog Trainers in Beverly Hills, CA

Daryl Graham.

Here's a link on how to choose a good Trainer that might be helpful: https://positively.com/dog-training/find-a-trainer/how-to-choose-a-good-dog-trainer/

Daryl Graham DG dog academy be more than happy to help. You can message us directly to the page James.

I'm a Qualified and Experienced Dog Trainer and would be happy to help. Check out my page for references www.doggyeducation.com or www.facebook.com/doggyeducation

I have my labrador pup with DG Dog Academy! Highly recommended https://www.facebook.com/pages/DG-Dog-Academy/378512325692636

Until you teach BF not to leave food out, follow BF around picking up after him. Or block off the kitchen and you will still need to follow BF around and reblock the kitchen whenever he unblocks it Don't punish your dog because something your BF is doing. Also, reward your dog often for doing what you like. i.e. catch the dog laying on his mat while you are in the kitchen? Give him a treat. (Also, if you catch BF cleaning the counter, give him a treat) http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/07/reward-what-we-like-instead-of.html

Any member of the onion family is poisonous to dogs. I use the Dorwest Herbal range as this is specially prepared with the right dosage for dogs & cats. http://www.petinsurance.com/healthzone/pet-articles/pet-health-toxins/Garlic-Toxicity-and-Pets.aspx

Leanne Hugg wrote: > For all of my own dogs...I have taught leave it > including countertops and absence to prevent surfer...once > the surfing starts, the work and training triples. Yep. It's MUCH easier if you're able to teach from the beginning that countertops and tabletops are off limits. You can walk out of the room and leave a *steak* sitting on a low coffee table with our Otterhound, and she won't touch it... difference between her & the Bloodhound is, pure and simple, that one came to live with us at 12 weeks and the other at 9 months.

Karen Pryor:" Behaviors that produces no results -not good results or bad results, just no results- will probably extinguish." it just that simple Aaron I know it works because I just did it with a counter surfing Samoyed foster

I haven't read this (my dog doesn't counter surf so I put it off to concentrate on important stuff like bad SA) but I have had good feed back from it off my page http://positively.com/2013/11/25/making-manners-fun-counter-surfing-holiday-edition/

Paula Shimko: The original poster was asking for a way to train their dog not to jump up on the counters when there is food there. You suggested that by removing the food, then that would be extinction. I do agree that after a long period of time of no "payoff", the dog will likely no longer go up on the counter--assuming that there isn't something else reinforcing up there other than food. However, let's say that the dog has not gone up on the counter in a month since they have learned there is no payoff up there. Now, you put a slice of pizza out on a plate. Do you really think the dog will not jump up on the counter? Let's look at this closely: Stimulus --> Behavior --> Reinforcement Before any training: "Strong Food Smell On Counter" --> "Dog jumps up on counter" --> "Dog eats bf's pizza." Result: Dog will want to jump up on counter when they smell food. Now, at your suggestion, we remove the "Strong Food Smell On Counter" stimulus, so we have: "Clean Counter Smell" --> "Dog jumps up on counter" --> "Dog finds no food" = No Reinforcement Result: The dog goes up to patrol, finds nothing, tries again and again, but I think we agree that eventually the dog will stop jumping up on the counter. Now, the question is, what happens if we put the pizza back on the counter? If I read the quote from Karen Pryor literally, then I guess I have to agree. But do you believe it? I sure don't. We all know that the dog will absolutely jump up and start munching. When Karen Pryor was talking about "extinguishing" behavior, she didn't mean that the dog would never do the behavior again--she just meant that they wouldn't do the behavior in a specific context. In other words, the behavior that was driven from a specific set of stimuli. So, in conclusion, by removing the food, we have broken the conditioned ABC chain: "Clean Counter Smell" --> "Dog jumps up on counter" but have done little to affect the requested target ABC chain that: "Strong Food Smell On Counter" --> "Dog jumps up on counter" --> "Dog eats bf's pizza." --- By chance, if you are going to her ClickerExpo conference this year, Karen Pryor is giving a session on Extinction! Here is a VERY interesting excerpt: Karen Pryor: "Extinction, however, is always an aversive experience, sometimes extremely aversive, triggering rage, aggression, and despair. Furthermore, once learned, no behavior ever really disappears; all you can hope for is that you have extinguished the behavior under present conditions and to all reasonable extents and purposes." So, I guess deliberately removing a reinforcer that your dog is conditioned to receive is an aversive technique! Maybe double-sided tape IS the ultimate answer!

Aaron Daar wrote: > n example of "extinction" would be to have the > pizza on the counter, but secured in a cage. > The dog will surf for a period of time... Weeks > at least ... But since there is no payoff, will > eventually ignore the odor. Then when the pizza > is out unprotected, they will ignore that too. You clearly don't live with terriers or hounds. My dogs would either figure out how to open the cage, or they'd be smart enough to know the difference between the secured and unsecured food.

I have seen videos of trainers like Victoria Stillwell and possibly Dr. Yin work with counter surfers. Of course, training would be time and labor intensive, so I would agree with management. I like baby gates to control the environment (unless your dog can jump them).

Terri L Holt had a nice training game plan for you to follow. Continue leave it work on the counter as well as other surfaces to broaden the dogs impulse control where food is present. The tricky part with owner absent issues is the dog realizes how to have a party without you...then the workload becomes much harder but it can be done. The whole thing with the mouse traps, coke cans, etc is designed to create a startle response in the dog. Signalling to the dog that countertops are unsafe scavenging areas. Without olfactory pairing of a startle...most dogs will habituated to the startling stimuli and no longer respond. Dogs are also cunning enough to see when the "trap is set" which only temporarily suspends the activity. If you choose to use a startling stimuli...(I personally have proofed a dedicated countersurfer using SSST CAT but only after training auto leave its. If you are going to use it and be fair...they must have prior training and knowledge of the correct behavior first...like Terri Holt outlined above and in Kikopup video) during the training you will leave the startle stimuli where it will need to be placed but inactive. After a couple weeks of good management and daily training the SSST CAT went 'live'. That day the countertops cleaner was changed...olfactory pairing. Usually it takes one or two sssstttts from the can and the dog realizes the counter are unsafe food sources when they smell like the new cleaner. For all of my own dogs...I have taught leave it including countertops and absence to prevent surfer...once the surfing starts, the work and training triples.

Hayley, I am the trainer at petsmart in alabaster. I would love to work with you. We do use treats as initial motivators when learning new commands, but we use other methods besides luring. We encourage the use of toys and praise/petting, especially when working with a dog who prefers tactile reinforcement. My goal when training a dog is to get them to *think*. My advanced students do not use treats at all... the entire goal od our advanced course is to pass the AKC Canine Good Citizen test (Google it if you're not familiar with it...it's pretty awesome), and treats are not allowed in the test. Its about finding what works for your particular dog, what gets them ticking and working for you. And of course, it's about the bond between owner and dog. Also we do not require you to use a clicker...many of my students use a marker word like "yes" instead. I would love to give you a free consultation. 663-2389. Or if you like, I would also be glad to put you in touch with some of my former students. I have 6 yrs experience and CPDT certification. Hope to hear from you, and best of luck with your pup!

Also I would recommend local trainers Abigail Witthauer at Roverchase or Beth Willingham at Cahaba Beach.

I would highly recommend Rebecca Joyner Mason at Petsmart. We are more than happy to work with you at Roverchase with non-food positive motivators as well. www.Roverchase.com

Here is a great resource to get you started http://positively.com/dog-training/myths-truths/

Both Scraggywaggs and Just for Paws are fab, and run reward based adolescent training classes. Scraggywaggs is based in Chorlton, and Just For Paws is in Sale.

We used CB Dogs for the 'next steps' training class and it was EXCELLENT. In any case, whoever you choose make sure to ask lots of questions and have a read of this... smile emoticon https://positively.com/.../how-to-choose-a-good-dog-trainer/

Renata I've taken pye to see Jim Greenwood and he's a lurcher specialist! He does 1-2-1 and a class on a thurs night I'll pm you his number xxx

Here's an article about barking. https://positively.com/dog-behavior/nuisance-behaviors/barking/

Thunder Shirt!